Sunday, November 8, 2009

Discovering Da Flora...

Having just come off a string of fabulous Italian meals in SF recently (Flour +Water, Bar Bambino, Farina,) and an orgy of food and wine in Tuscany earlier this spring, going to dinner amidst a gaggle of mediocre touristy eateries off Columbus wasn’t at the top of my list.

In fact, to be completely candid here, my expectations heading into “D” restaurant were pretty low. To use a dating analogy, it kinda felt like going from the hot underwear model with size 12 feet to being set up with someone’s 5’2” cousin on a blind date.

Speaking of restos you’d take a first date to, the ambiance at da Flora was surprisingly romantic. Ruddy faux finished walls, sailing ships and low hanging Moorish lamps completed the nautical Venetian theme without being too cliché or overly done.

Upon arrival, our little coven had ordered a bottle of Prosecco Giol Veneto, adding to the intimate vibe. The Gluttony gang was in full form this evening as FB addict Lisa Y snapped unflattering candid shots of the group. “Have I captured your soul?” she asked Oliver, revealing a ghastly blurred picture that was something out of The Ring.

We noshed on some pretty tasteless focaccia (seriously, it was church host wafer bland), and contemplated the elegant handwritten menu.



John mentioned that this was the place renowned for both its rudeness and its Signature gnocchi dish, so we placed our orders and waited in anticipation.

The fall menu was seasonally inspired, and this included the gnocchi. Square shaped pillows of dough were light to the taste. Surprisingly, they reminded me of toasted campfire marshmallows, both in flavor and texture. The flavor of the gnocchi wouldn’t stand on its own but the sweet and smoky sauce gave it an edge.

The speck and persimmon antipasti was a neat twist on the usual melon/prosciutto combo. It came simply dressed with a light vinaigrette. The end result was pretty underwhelming as the subtle flavor and dryness of the persimmon didn’t offer up a hearty contrast to the boldness of the speck. The Caesar Salad was bright, citrusy and crunchy, with a good dose of anchovy.

Since seafood is a staple of traditional Venetian fare, I was really looking forward to my main of grilled Dayboat Scallops. They were done to perfection, a seared crust and delicate, moist interior. The scallops were server on a bed of pumpkin puree—again, an original twist on a classic which didn’t quite deliver. The sugary sweet pumpkin overpowered the dish.


The osso bucco with gypsy pepper sugo, was rich and meaty as expected, but the meat wasn’t quite fork tender, and could have used more seasoning. The citrusy coulis was interesting, as was the white bean puree side.

Duck livers were an unusual offering, but again, could have benefitted from more seasoning to bring out the decadent richness of the dish.

The vegetarians in our group had the Orchiette Broccoli Rabe—the toothiness of the pasta was great but was bland as a whole—can a girl get a little sea salt already? Sheesh.

Without a doubt, the highlight of the meal was the dessert. Pot de crème chocolates were velvety smooth without a hint of chalkiness, and the Camila and Grapefruit Granita was the best upscale interpretation of a Creamsicle I’ve ever had. The dessert wine selection piqued our interest, and the nutty caramel wine we tried complemented the desserts perfectly.

Overall, the dishes were original but really missed the mark when it came to balancing the flavors. The brusque service was slow and not everyone was served at the same time, also a big miss in my book.

Add that to the fact that the bill (including wine) come to a heady $93 per person, I won’t be navigating down da Flora’s culinary canals anytime soon.

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